You might remember the traditional Nepali ceremony, know as the Puja, from my climb of Everest and Lhotse. This tradition is meant to ask the mountain for safe passage and to bless the climb. It is held in very high regard by the Sherpa people and necessary before they step foot on the mountain. Well, today is the day of our Puja, as our schedule begins to take shape.
The Sherpas awoke early to begin building the traditional stone altar that becomes the centerpiece of our camp throughout our expedition. Us climbers would have loved to have helped but we would have probably done it incorrectly. Instead, we had our breakfast while the Sherpas were hard at work. When we exited the dining tent, the altar was complete and the Puja was almost ready to begin. The final touch was placing our most essential climbing gear (axes, helmets, crampons, etc.) on the altar to be blessed.

The Puja Altar

Since we are in Pakistan and Lama’s are hard to come by, one of the senior Sherpas, Mingma, took on the leadership role. We circled around him and he lead our team in the traditional chant. Members of the Canadian, Japanese, and Austrian teams joined in this special ceremony, which lasts about an hour. The conclusion of the ceremony is truly special, as prayer flags are raised from a pole at the center of the altar and everyone shares food and drink. This year’s drink was a bottle of Johnny Walker, which each team member takes a sip of. I was the proud contributor of this year’s blessed adult beverage!
Of course, no Puja would be complete without dancing! The Sherpas formed a line, shoulder to shoulder, and wrapped their arms over one another as the dancing began. Soon, they pulled in the climbers and we tried to learn the steps on the fly. It wasn’t pretty but that’s not what matters! Not to be outdone, our Pakistani staff soon formed a circle and began their own traditional singing and dancing. I found myself looking around at our diverse team and swelled with pride, knowing that this type of comradely is what will help us find safety and success on this mountain. It was a truly special event, one that I will never forget.

The 2017 Everest & Lhotse Team: Siddhi, Geoff and Me

With the Puja behind us, we spent the afternoon in the sun as the weather had begun to clear. While we still have yet to see the summit of K2, 12,000’ above us, we the forecast is beginning to look favorable and preparations are being made for our assault. Just before dinner, a few of us convened with Garrett to discuss our preliminary schedule. If the forecast holds, a big IF, we will begin our first rotation on Friday the 6th or Saturday the 7th. This would consist of a 4 day rotation; first, a move to Camp 1 , followed by a rest day at Camp 1, a move to Camp 2, a rest day at Camp 2, and then descend back to BC. We generally use a 1:1 ratio of climb to rest days, so we would have 4 rest days, followed by any additional days that are needed for a good weather window. Our first conceivable departure date for a summit push would probably be the 20th and would provide us with almost a 2 week window. The plan is solid and we are setting up well but mountains are fickle, so patience will be key.