Our tent worked out great, despite our original skepticism, and allowed us another good night of sleep. Geoff and I spent the entire morning watching movies and editing pictures on my iPad. Garrett popped in our tent and we ended up chatting for about an hour, discussing everything ranging from details of the accident, the weather, the new ropes, and plans for a summit rotation. The time flew by and we decided upon offering up an hour long optional acclimatization climb partway up the Black Pyramid, the area between C2 and C3.
I was feeling lazy but knew from experience that stretching the legs would be good and experiencing the terrain that we would soon tackle would be an added benefit. Some of the team was experiencing altitude issues and the rest were content resting in their tents, so five of us started upward around 2 PM. Garrett, Rob, David, Geoff and I made our way up about 350 vertical feet up the route. If I thought the previous day’s rock was challenging, I was soon corrected. Even more thought provoking than the move from C1 to C2, the Black Pyramid offered some fun high altitude rock climbing. It was exhilarating but I doubt I’ll be saying that when I have to do that for a full 2,000’ in 1-2 weeks!
Garrett, Rob, Geoff, and David take a rest on our acclimatization climb up the Black Pyramid.
We enjoyed 15 minutes from a nice perch, peering down on C2, ABC at the base on the left of the ridge, and BC on the right side of the ridge. The view was amazing! Knowing that we would get our full dose of the Black Pyramid soon enough, we made quick work of the descent.
An amazing view from C2. You can see the orange tents of BC on the lower rock strip of the glacial flow.
As we lay down for bed, we heard a helicopter far below and knew that it was to pick up the body of the Canadian climber. It was a sobering reminder of the dangers of the mountain and we looked forward to being back at BC in less than 24 hours. Garrett had asked us to lead the team down, knowing that we are two of the fastest and that this would set a good precedent for the team. We planned a 5 AM wake to pack gear and set us up for a quick escape down the mountain.
Thank you for keeping us all on the edge of our seats as we follow along on your harrowing journey. Reading your updates have kept Mick and I entertained on the long drives of our road trip to Florida. I thought of you when the power went out in our hotel and we had to lug five pieces of luggage down four flights of stairs. Not even close to what you are going through. It’s funny how people complain about the most inane things. Sorry you had to experience such tragedy again. Stay safe!
It definitely puts things in perspective, right? Don’t worry, I do my fair share of complaining about hauling luggage around, it’s a bit more cumbersome than a backpack but with slightly less risk! Hope you and Mick are enjoying your journey!
Just caught up on all of your entries. Sorry that you had to witness another tragedy. Sounds devastating. Keep your spirits up and stay safe up there. You’ll be happy to know that Lleyton is taking after uncle John climbing on everything and scaring his mother 😀 You’ve also missed a few coyote sightings outside your room this week. That’s pretty much all the news here. We miss you roomie!
It was one of the toughest days of my entire life, it shook me to my core, but I feel stronger and more confident after facing it. I’m definitely missing my roomies, especially Lleyton! I’m thinking that I’ll get him a little harness when I get back and train him on safe climbing technique. That should save you some stress 😉
As for those coyotes, I’m ok sharing my jungle with them as long as the spider population doesn’t increase! I’m coming back with 5 cans of Raid!
The glacial flow: looks so much like a river. Looks smooth and peaceful, but I guess that is deceiving.
It is smooth and peaceful, until you get up close and realize that the seracs can crush you and the crevasses can eat you!