Two great nights of sleep in a row! Sleep is so critical in the mountains to maintain health, as well as peak physical and mental performance. I regularly check my O2 saturation and I’m currently running around 65%. This might sound alarming to most but considering that I’m at 20,000’, where oxygen levels are well below 50%, I’m very pleased. My body is outpacing the environment around me and I feel great!
This performance set me up well for today’s move to C2, which is just a hair below 22,000’. The climb started with a steep 45-55 degree snow slope but one that we very manageable. We cruised up the first 1,000’ but then encountered K2’s infamous rock features. I’m proficient in rock climbing but by no means am I an expert. Couple that with an elevation of 21,000’ and rigid triple mountaineering boots, and we had our work cut out for us.
The terrain was challenging but thought provoking as we shimmied our way up, over, around and through rock features. Even though it caused us to slow our pace, the need for complete focus helped the time fly by. Before we knew it, we found ourselves at the foot of the famous House’s Chimney, a 100’ vertical rock chimney that is the final obstacle before reaching C2. A couple climbers before us really struggled with the challenge and took far too much time overcoming it. Geoff, Jesse, Jason and I shivered as we waited our turn. I watched Geoff’s moves as he shimmied his way up, hoping to steal some of his moves over the more challenging features. He made his way up in about 10 minutes and then it was my turn…
I hustled my way up the initial ice slope, utilizing my ice climbing skills to efficiently front point my crampons up the rock hard ice. Then I found myself at the base of House’s Chimney, looking up the narrow path, and prepared myself for a struggle. Years before a very small chain ladder, about 6 inches in width, had been placed there for a handhold. I shimmied my way up the passage, one hand on the ladder and one on my ascender (jumar), which was attached to the rope. While upper body strength is very helpful, the key is good footwork to drive you upward. My legs split the space and my crampons clawed at the rock on each side of the chimney. I was about halfway up when I heard shouting from above. When I looked up, I saw Dendi and Siddhi staring down at me as they taunted me, pointing to their biceps and yelling “Big muscles! Faster, John Dai!” Even in my precarious position, I couldn’t help but laugh. I love those guys and appreciated every bit of their encouragement. I mustered up all my strength and hauled myself to the top in very good time. Geoff, Dendi and Siddhi were there to greet me with high fives and we all shared a good laugh!
Dendi and Siddhi were on their way down after setting our new rope up higher, so Geoff and I covered the last few hundred feet of snow slope together to C2. The wind had picked up, so Garrett was quick to assign tents. After our oddly sloped tent in C1, we were sure that the accommodations at C2 would be better, but we were wrong. The campsite is situated on a very steep incline with each tent footprint cut into the ice. Our tent was slanted uphill for 2/3’s and the last 1/3 was hanging off into space. Luckily, we had placed ropes through it, attached to pickets, to prevent it from falling off the side of the mountain. We placed our lighter gear on the free hanging side, under our sleeping pads, to create a trough-like sleeping arrangement. After 6 hours of serious climbing, it was like heaven.
Geoff is psyched on our way to C2
Before going to bed, Geoff and I took turns calling our Mom’s on the satellite phone.
When I spoke to mine, I was positive that she was going to be upset but once again, I underestimated her. If she was, I didn’t sense it at all. She told me that she had read about the tragic accident but that she had complete faith in our strength and the decisions that we would make. To top it off, she had researched the new rope that Garrett said we would be using and that she was very confident in its reliability. Never in a million years did I think that my Mom would be researching climbing rope, but she never ceases to amaze me!
Thank you for being AMAZED my dear son!!!!
Love you, Mom!
John
Once again I agree with you: your mom is amazing.
You have a great team, one that can laugh together and pick on each other; (big muscles)
Thanks for sharing
Amazed at your mother’s research??? Not me… she is known for her planning and preparation, and as I recall she has always made sure that your “toys” were safe and user friendly. LOL
But you should have heard her, Aunt Rita! I expected her voice to crack a bit but instead she told me how she had done her research on the ropes and felt that they were the right choice! She definitely knows more about them than I do at this point! I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised by her anymore haha