JOURNAL

Wow, so this is happening. It feels as if it was just yesterday that I was writing to you about gearing up for an assault on Everest and Lhotse. I vividly remember the fear and anxiety that was coursing through me as I typed out each word, unsure of what lay ahead....

Mountaineering expeditions require a lot of hard work high on the mountain but rest days at basecamp are equally valuable. The general rule of thumb is that we spend an equal number of days low (Basecamp) as we did high (climbing), before returning to climbing. Due to...

Our plan failed out of the gate. We had tried to wake up early but with our tent getting hammered by wind, it was difficult to melt snow for water and boil it for breakfast. Geoff, one of the most proficient snow melters that I know, proceeded to spill the water out...

Two great nights of sleep in a row! Sleep is so critical in the mountains to maintain health, as well as peak physical and mental performance. I regularly check my O2 saturation and I’m currently running around 65%. This might sound alarming to most but considering...

It’s amazing what good sleep does for your psyche. Usually, sleep when moving up in elevation can be a real challenge, especially during the first night and when making a big leap, like 4,000 vertical feet. My night’s sleep was just the opposite of difficult, I was...