K2
JULY - AUGUST 2018
Rest Day @ Camp 2 (Day 21)
Our tent worked out great, despite our original skepticism, and allowed us another good night of sleep. Geoff and I spent the entire morning watching movies and editing pictures on my iPad. Garrett popped in our tent and we ended up chatting for about an hour, discussing everything ranging from details of the accident, the weather, the new ropes, and plans for a summit rotation. The time flew by and we decided upon offering up an hour long optional acclimatization climb partway up the Black Pyramid, the area between C2 and C3.
I was feeling lazy but knew from experience that stretching the legs would be good and experiencing the terrain that we would soon tackle would be an added benefit. Some of the team was experiencing altitude issues and the rest were content resting in their tents, so five of us started upward around 2 PM. Garrett, Rob, David, Geoff and I made our way up about 350 vertical feet up the route. If I thought the previous day’s rock was challenging, I was soon corrected. Even more thought provoking than the move from C1 to C2, the Black Pyramid offered some fun high altitude rock climbing. It was exhilarating but I doubt I’ll be saying that when I have to do that for a full 2,000’ in 1-2 weeks!
Garrett, Rob, Geoff, and David take a rest on our acclimatization climb up the Black Pyramid.
We enjoyed 15 minutes from a nice perch, peering down on C2, ABC at the base on the left of the ridge, and BC on the right side of the ridge. The view was amazing! Knowing that we would get our full dose of the Black Pyramid soon enough, we made quick work of the descent.
An amazing view from C2. You can see the orange tents of BC on the lower rock strip of the glacial flow.
As we lay down for bed, we heard a helicopter far below and knew that it was to pick up the body of the Canadian climber. It was a sobering reminder of the dangers of the mountain and we looked forward to being back at BC in less than 24 hours. Garrett had asked us to lead the team down, knowing that we are two of the fastest and that this would set a good precedent for the team. We planned a 5 AM wake to pack gear and set us up for a quick escape down the mountain.
Move to Camp 2 (Day 20)
Two great nights of sleep in a row! Sleep is so critical in the mountains to maintain health, as well as peak physical and mental performance. I regularly check my O2 saturation and I’m currently running around 65%. This might sound alarming to most but considering that I’m at 20,000’, where oxygen levels are well below 50%, I’m very pleased. My body is outpacing the environment around me and I feel great!
This performance set me up well for today’s move to C2, which is just a hair below 22,000’. The climb started with a steep 45-55 degree snow slope but one that we very manageable. We cruised up the first 1,000’ but then encountered K2’s infamous rock features. I’m proficient in rock climbing but by no means am I an expert. Couple that with an elevation of 21,000’ and rigid triple mountaineering boots, and we had our work cut out for us.
The terrain was challenging but thought provoking as we shimmied our way up, over, around and through rock features. Even though it caused us to slow our pace, the need for complete focus helped the time fly by. Before we knew it, we found ourselves at the foot of the famous House’s Chimney, a 100’ vertical rock chimney that is the final obstacle before reaching C2. A couple climbers before us really struggled with the challenge and took far too much time overcoming it. Geoff, Jesse, Jason and I shivered as we waited our turn. I watched Geoff’s moves as he shimmied his way up, hoping to steal some of his moves over the more challenging features. He made his way up in about 10 minutes and then it was my turn…
I hustled my way up the initial ice slope, utilizing my ice climbing skills to efficiently front point my crampons up the rock hard ice. Then I found myself at the base of House’s Chimney, looking up the narrow path, and prepared myself for a struggle. Years before a very small chain ladder, about 6 inches in width, had been placed there for a handhold. I shimmied my way up the passage, one hand on the ladder and one on my ascender (jumar), which was attached to the rope. While upper body strength is very helpful, the key is good footwork to drive you upward. My legs split the space and my crampons clawed at the rock on each side of the chimney. I was about halfway up when I heard shouting from above. When I looked up, I saw Dendi and Siddhi staring down at me as they taunted me, pointing to their biceps and yelling “Big muscles! Faster, John Dai!” Even in my precarious position, I couldn’t help but laugh. I love those guys and appreciated every bit of their encouragement. I mustered up all my strength and hauled myself to the top in very good time. Geoff, Dendi and Siddhi were there to greet me with high fives and we all shared a good laugh!
Dendi and Siddhi were on their way down after setting our new rope up higher, so Geoff and I covered the last few hundred feet of snow slope together to C2. The wind had picked up, so Garrett was quick to assign tents. After our oddly sloped tent in C1, we were sure that the accommodations at C2 would be better, but we were wrong. The campsite is situated on a very steep incline with each tent footprint cut into the ice. Our tent was slanted uphill for 2/3’s and the last 1/3 was hanging off into space. Luckily, we had placed ropes through it, attached to pickets, to prevent it from falling off the side of the mountain. We placed our lighter gear on the free hanging side, under our sleeping pads, to create a trough-like sleeping arrangement. After 6 hours of serious climbing, it was like heaven.
Geoff is psyched on our way to C2
Before going to bed, Geoff and I took turns calling our Mom’s on the satellite phone.
When I spoke to mine, I was positive that she was going to be upset but once again, I underestimated her. If she was, I didn’t sense it at all. She told me that she had read about the tragic accident but that she had complete faith in our strength and the decisions that we would make. To top it off, she had researched the new rope that Garrett said we would be using and that she was very confident in its reliability. Never in a million years did I think that my Mom would be researching climbing rope, but she never ceases to amaze me!
Rest Day @ Camp 1 (Day 19)
It’s amazing what good sleep does for your psyche. Usually, sleep when moving up in elevation can be a real challenge, especially during the first night and when making a big leap, like 4,000 vertical feet. My night’s sleep was just the opposite of difficult, I was out like a rock and awoke with a renewed sense of confidence. It’s not that I had forgotten about what had occurred but rather, I remembered why I came here and that I had done all the right things to prepare for this mountain. I belong here.
As we consumed some dehydrated hash browns and eggs, I reflected on the previous day. Despite showing what might be perceived as moments of weakness, I was proud of how I responded because it meant that I had not been desensitized by what I have experienced over the years. The compassion towards other climbers and understanding that everyone on the mountain is part of a broader team is what keeps us safer in the long run.
Acclimatization climb above C1. You can see the tents of C1 below Geoff.
The plan for the day was to make an acclimatization climb partway up the route to C2. Before we set out, details of the accident began to surface. Garrett made a visit to Geoff and my tent to fill us in. He said that the victim was Serge, an accomplished climber from the 3 person Canadian team that was camped next to us at BC. This verified what we had heard previously. What we didn’t know was that he had been descending from C2 and was only a short way out of camp when he used a rope from a previous year to secure himself. These ropes are subjected to the elements day after day and sometimes remain years on end. Depending on the quality of the rope, some may remain usable for a couple of years but still should never be relied upon solely. Serge chose the wrong rope to rely on and it snapped when he put pressure on it. He careened over the nearly vertical face below C2, most likely killing him instantly.
With this new information in hand, Garrett had already begun to work with our Sherpas and other teams to outfit the mountain with new improved lines. Setting these lines is generally a group effort with 2-3 teams generally taking on the heavy lifting. Ropes had already been set from ABC to C1 and C2 by the Japanese team but they used a cheaper 8mm rope that almost has a plastic feel to it, known on the mountain as Korean line. Some of this had already begun to fray where it came into contact with rock and everyone was in agreement that it must be replaced. I’m proud to say that Garrett took the lead and set plans in place to replace the Korean line with the 9mm Petzl line that is such high quality that it could be mistaken for regular climbing rope, except that it is static.
We began our acclimatization climb shortly after the discussion and noticed that the Sherpas had already set some of the new Petzl line above C1. The difference was night and day. We cruised up the new line with a renewed confidence and enjoyed the amazing view as we peered down on C1 from 500’ above. On the way down, I had the opportunity to shake the rust off of my arm wrapping, a skill which I feel that I excel in. Arm wrapping is the act of wrapping the rope around your trailing arm for friction as you face directly down the mountain face while descending. You use your lead hand to guide and basically walk down the mountain in a forward lean. The much more conservative approach is rappelling, which uses a friction device on your harness to lower yourself backwards. This is more idiot proof but is tedious, limits mobility and visibility, and requires that you constantly transfer the rope on and off the rappel device when you reach an anchor. Use of the arm wrap technique is an effective method and saves a great deal of time, which is critical on a mountain like K2 where more time climbing subjects you to more objective hazard. Being the heaviest guy on the team by 20 lbs with the biggest biceps catches me some flak but for once, they provide an advantage!
Today was much needed and went a long way in reminding me that I belong on this mountain.
A Sobering Reminder (Day 18)
I’ve always done my best to be honest with you, regarding the events that transpire on the mountain and how they affect my psyche. What you read is my personal journal, I don’t keep any side records. The problem with this approach is that my emotions are tied to these events and when I am unable to process them, I find myself at a loss for words. For the first time since I’ve been sharing with you, this is the case. Today’s events shocked me to my core and will remain with me forever, but I will do my best to share what I can at this moment.
Our move to Camp 1 began with a 3:45 AM alarm, another great breakfast, and departed camp at 5:10 AM. K2 was completely visible, without a single cloud shrouding her. The half of our team that had decided to forgo moving to ABC the day prior, was in awe of the view and stopped often to take pictures. About halfway to ABC, an avalanche broke on the south side of the mountain and we hustled along to some higher ground, despite being well out of its reach. We made quick work of the hike, arriving to ABC at 6:45 AM. We looked up and saw that the other half of our team had departed about 30 minutes prior, so the six of us quickly threw on the technical climbing gear, that we had stashed days prior. Spirits were high as the sun crested over one of the nearby peaks and we began our way up the Abruzzi Spur at 7:20 AM.
We begin our ascent to C1
The move from ABC to C1 on the Abruzzi, consists of skirting a rocky ridge on the left with the broad expanse of K2’s East Face on our right. From ABC at 17,200’ to Camp 2, almost 5,000’ above, not a single rock adorned the East Face, just a continuous snow slope 4,800’ high and probably two football fields wide.
We moved very up the ridge, gaining ground on the first half of our team. Jesse was in front, followed by Garrett, Semba, David, Geoff and finally, me. There is no rhyme or reason to our order and I don’t mind the back, even though some might feel uneasy with the hanging over what often seems to feel like oblivion. This is definitely the case with K2, as the slope ranged from 40-50 degrees and never lets up. You have to crane your neck to see the top of the route and each step forward is an equal distance up. Fortunately, this team was full of character and very strong, and the day was shaping up to be a great climb.
The final push to C1
Around 9 AM and a gain of 1,200 vertical feet, shortly after our first break, we were rounding a rock outcrop and Jesse yelled “ROCK!” from the front. On K2, the two biggest dangers to climbers are avalanche and rockfall, so in this case our training takes over. We all stopped where we were and ducked, keeping our heads down with the crown of our helmets facing up. Within seconds, I believe it was Garrett who yelled something along the lines of “Don’t worry, it’s on the face”. A brief moment of relief was followed by terror when I heard someone say, “It’s a body.”
I was directly behind Geoff and could not yet see up the slope, so I held out hope that it wasn’t a climber and thought to myself, “Please not again. Please let it be anything but a person.” Just a moment later, the object came into view on the slope, less than 100 ft to our right, and I immediately knew it was a body. It didn’t move like a body, it tumbled like a rag doll on the 45 degree slope and looked more like a jumble of clothing, but I could distinctly make out the boots as they swung around with each rotation. Garrett said, “maybe it’s a body from another year that broke free from the glacier, but we knew the truth, as we saw loose gear and clothing follow in a sort of wake.
My team stood there in shock with the occasional “Oh my God”. The minutes felt like an eternity as I struggled to cope with what we had just witnessed. Flashbacks to my experiences on Everest rocked me and I fell into a state of shock. As chatter increased on the radio between Geoff, Garrett and other teams, I pulled myself back to the moment and I began to question everything that I was doing. It shook me to my core and I felt an overwhelming feeling of fear and self doubt. Why is this happening again? Does death follow me? What am I doing here? Why do I engage in such a selfish act? Why am I climbing, is it ego over risk? These questions flooded my mind and then instantly vanished when I thought about Mom. How could I do this to her?
Geoff saw me coming unraveled and I began to cry when we made eye contact. It was an unspoken understanding of what we had been through together and he put his hand on my shoulder. I grasped the pendant that my had given me prior to the climb that I wear around my neck and recited its inscription to myself; “Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; Do not be discouraged, for the Lord your God will be with you wherever you go. -Joshua 1:9”.
I found comfort in this verse, that my Mom knew that I would have moments of weakness and that it might give me strength in these moments. My team was there for me and I knew that I needed to be there for them too, so that we may make it safely to Camp 1. Grief had to wait, I needed to be the best climber that I could be and I gathered myself.
The next 3 hours were somber and dialog between the team was limited, but I moved with purpose and efficiency. One of our teammates from the first group had fallen behind, struggling with the physical demands of the climb and the emotional toll of the day’s events. I saw Jesse move to their side and begin to provide encouragement. Geoff and I soon caught up and did the same. It’s what teammates do but it also allowed me to shift my mental focus and in a way, it provided a sense of control after feeling such utter helplessness just an hour prior. Together, we push upward to Camp 1.
When I finally topped out at C1, a man was approaching the line and appeared to be preparing to move down. With the weight of the days events on my mind and my objective complete, I moved sluggishly as I transitioned my carabiners from one rope to another. I apologized to him, saying, “I’m sorry for moving slowly, I’m a little shaken up and trying to be extra careful.” He responded, “Sonny, don’t be sorry, take all the time that you need. I lost my friend today because he didn’t.” He grabbed my hand and we said a prayer together.
Again, I began to move towards the center of camp, when I noticed a woman being helped down the lines by a few other climbers. David leaned over and said, “That is the woman teammate of the man who fell. There were 3 of them. It’s so sad.” I sat down on some snow and knowing that I no longer had to be strong, let it all out. I’m not sure how long I was sitting there but each teammate took a turn checking on me and consoling me. The psychological exhaustion far outweighed the physical for the day, so I was quick to help Geoff set the tent platform and crawl in.
The last thing that I did before going I to bed was to call Mom. While I felt bad for waking her up, I couldn’t stand the thought of her hearing the news and even considering that it might be her son, even for a split second. I didn’t provide any details, just that an accident had happened but our entire team was safe. In typical Patty fashion, she held it together, reiterated her faith in me and reminded me of how much she loved me. Even at 32, Mom is still my rock.
I finished this entry today, Thursday the 12th, and without a doubt, it has been the most challenging collection of words that I’ve ever attempted to put together. I still don’t know if it was too much detail to share or too little, but it’s what happened. I’m left with the worst mental image of my life and memories of the struggles of the day, but also of a reminder of the frailty of life and renewed appreciation of the relationships in it. I hope that you might find a similar meaning through my words.
RIP Serge.
A tough day.
Call July 10
Call July 9
Call July 8
Call July 7
1st Rotation (Day 17)
I’d be lying if I said that I wasn’t nervous before a climb, especially on the “Mountain of Mountains”. The nerves are some combination of the eager butterflies before a football game, self doubt, and fear of the unknown. For that reason, I have a kind of ritual before every trip up a mountain. The night prior to climbing, I read the the stack of notes and prayers from my friends and family gave me before departing for my climb. They give me strength, guidance, and most of all, remind me of how much love surrounds me.
These notes, prayers, and the overwhelming support of everyone following my journey, mean more to me than words can describe. Thank you, all!
Now to the details… Tomorrow, at 5 AM, we will depart basecamp and head to Advanced Basecamp, which is about 900’ of vertical gain. From there we will begin our climb up the Abruzzi Spur, which will be our route up the mountain. It is a sustained 45 degree climb and we will gain an additional 3,000’ before reaching Camp 1, at 20,200’. We estimate that it will take us 2 hours on the hike to ABC and another 5-6 hours up the route to C1, arriving in time for lunch. From there, we will spend 2 nights, with the second day being a rest day. On the third day, we will move to Camp 2 at approximately 23,000’, which will require almost 3,000’ of vertical gain. The elevation gain depends on where we decide to set C2 because it requires that we cut tent platforms into the snow bank. We will spend 2 nights there and descend back to K2BC on the fifth day. If it sounds like a lot of work, that is because it is. I expect to get my butt kicked.
I will be writing during our rest days but won’t be able to post, so I will be calling in via satellite phone to report on progress. It’s going to be challenging, so please keep my team in your prayers.
Before I go to sleep, I also want to thank a few people and organizations who have helped me to turn my dream into a reality…
Thank you to my partner organizations who have supported me through my “Leading from the Front” campaign, a recognition of agricultural companies that are leaders in the industry. These organizations include: Anthony Vineyards, Blue Diamond, C.H. Robinson/Robinson Fresh, Driscolls, Grimmway Farms/Cal Organic, Mission Produce, and one very near to my heart, Stenderup Ag Partners. I am proud to represent them both on and off of the mountain, and hope to bring pride to their teams through my effort.
My leading from the front partners
Thank you to the True Jerky Boys for my stylish apparel
Remembering the Past (Day 16)
First things first. I want to wish my wonderful Sister a happy birthday! Even though she is 2 1/2 years younger than me, she has always been my rock. Believe it or not, when I was younger, I was incredibly shy. At the ages of 6 and 4, I was often too afraid to ask someone where the bathroom was and she would ask for me, saying, “My brudder needs to use the baffroom”. While that was a long time ago, I still look to her for guidance in my times of need. I consider myself very blessed to have such an amazing sister. And while I wasn’t able to attend her birthday party but was definitely there in spirit. I’m sure that my absence will cost me exponentially when I return, and rightfully so. Love you, Sister!
As for today, it was another rest day that we used to plan and pack for our upcoming first rotation. Most rest days, we try to stay off of our feet to keep our legs fresh but after a few lazy days, we are getting restless. Some of the team decided to take another hike up to ABC, some to Broad Peak Basecamp, and the remaining four of us decided to visit the Art Gilkey Memorial.
I woke up in a bit of a funk, probably due to a combination of being stagnant the last few days, our looming rotation, and a bad night of sleep. I tried to fight through it but sometimes the isolation and task at hand really have a way of messing with your psyche. I debated over the visit to the Gilkey Memorial and waited until the last minute to commit. I wasn’t only hesitant because of my mood but also because of the reality that the Memorial represents.
Art Gilkey was an American climber on the 1953 expedition to K2. On the team’s summit push, which would have been the first summit of K2 (An Italian team recorded the first ascent the following year, in 1954), Art came down with a blood clot in his leg. His situation was dire and he almost had no chance of surviving but the team still decided to turn around in an attempt to save his life, despite a clear weather window and a very real chance to summit. They fought as a cohesive unit and were almost able to get him down to Camp 3, an almost unbelievable feat considering that he was immobilized. The team left him on the slope as they searched for a good route but when they turned around he was gone, surely swept away by a small avalanche. Many speculated that he triggered it, in an effort to save his team but we will never know. He is remembered as a great teammate and maintained a positive disposition until the very end.
In remembrance of him, they began a memorial at the foot of the mountain and placed a plaque there. Since this time, it has become known as the Art Gilkey Memorial and plaques are left in this very spot for each climber that loses their life on K2. The metal plaques can be seen from the glacier, despite being about 100 feet above. I can’t really find the words to describe the emotions that flow through you when you stand amongst them.
The primary purpose for our visit was for my teammate, Jason Black, to place a plaque for his fallen countryman, Ger McDonnell, the first Irishman to summit K2. He lost his life in the 2008 K2 disaster, when he was descending and stopped to help some Korean climbers that had become tangled in the rope. Without going into too much detail about the disaster, a series of events, included icefall from the famous serac on the bottleneck, resulted in chaos. Ger had the opportunity to descend and save himself but he chose to try to rescue these stricken climbers, which ultimately cost him his life.
Jason attempted to become the 2nd Irishman to summit K2 in 2015 but was turned away by an avalanche. In the debris, he found some of Ger’s belongings, which he brought back to Ger’s family. This act brought closure to the climber’s family and now, in 2018, Jason’s opportunity to place a plaque for Ger at the Gilkey Memorial brought him closure. I almost feel guilty sharing this story because it is so incredibly personal but also know that this message needs to be shared because it demonstrates the comradery and humanity that our world so needs.
Garrett, James, and I stood there with Jason, as he reflected. We helped him place the plaque, as he read the inscription, and James said a prayer. It was a special moment that we shared and one that I will remember for the rest of my life. This world is big and scary, you never know when your time will come. For that reason, make the most of your life, find compassion for all of God’s children, and cherish your loved ones.
