First things first. I want to wish my wonderful Sister a happy birthday! Even though she is 2 1/2 years younger than me, she has always been my rock. Believe it or not, when I was younger, I was incredibly shy. At the ages of 6 and 4, I was often too afraid to ask someone where the bathroom was and she would ask for me, saying, “My brudder needs to use the baffroom”. While that was a long time ago, I still look to her for guidance in my times of need. I consider myself very blessed to have such an amazing sister. And while I wasn’t able to attend her birthday party but was definitely there in spirit. I’m sure that my absence will cost me exponentially when I return, and rightfully so. Love you, Sister!
As for today, it was another rest day that we used to plan and pack for our upcoming first rotation. Most rest days, we try to stay off of our feet to keep our legs fresh but after a few lazy days, we are getting restless. Some of the team decided to take another hike up to ABC, some to Broad Peak Basecamp, and the remaining four of us decided to visit the Art Gilkey Memorial.
I woke up in a bit of a funk, probably due to a combination of being stagnant the last few days, our looming rotation, and a bad night of sleep. I tried to fight through it but sometimes the isolation and task at hand really have a way of messing with your psyche. I debated over the visit to the Gilkey Memorial and waited until the last minute to commit. I wasn’t only hesitant because of my mood but also because of the reality that the Memorial represents.
Art Gilkey was an American climber on the 1953 expedition to K2. On the team’s summit push, which would have been the first summit of K2 (An Italian team recorded the first ascent the following year, in 1954), Art came down with a blood clot in his leg. His situation was dire and he almost had no chance of surviving but the team still decided to turn around in an attempt to save his life, despite a clear weather window and a very real chance to summit. They fought as a cohesive unit and were almost able to get him down to Camp 3, an almost unbelievable feat considering that he was immobilized. The team left him on the slope as they searched for a good route but when they turned around he was gone, surely swept away by a small avalanche. Many speculated that he triggered it, in an effort to save his team but we will never know. He is remembered as a great teammate and maintained a positive disposition until the very end.
In remembrance of him, they began a memorial at the foot of the mountain and placed a plaque there. Since this time, it has become known as the Art Gilkey Memorial and plaques are left in this very spot for each climber that loses their life on K2. The metal plaques can be seen from the glacier, despite being about 100 feet above. I can’t really find the words to describe the emotions that flow through you when you stand amongst them.
The primary purpose for our visit was for my teammate, Jason Black, to place a plaque for his fallen countryman, Ger McDonnell, the first Irishman to summit K2. He lost his life in the 2008 K2 disaster, when he was descending and stopped to help some Korean climbers that had become tangled in the rope. Without going into too much detail about the disaster, a series of events, included icefall from the famous serac on the bottleneck, resulted in chaos. Ger had the opportunity to descend and save himself but he chose to try to rescue these stricken climbers, which ultimately cost him his life.
Jason attempted to become the 2nd Irishman to summit K2 in 2015 but was turned away by an avalanche. In the debris, he found some of Ger’s belongings, which he brought back to Ger’s family. This act brought closure to the climber’s family and now, in 2018, Jason’s opportunity to place a plaque for Ger at the Gilkey Memorial brought him closure. I almost feel guilty sharing this story because it is so incredibly personal but also know that this message needs to be shared because it demonstrates the comradery and humanity that our world so needs.
Garrett, James, and I stood there with Jason, as he reflected. We helped him place the plaque, as he read the inscription, and James said a prayer. It was a special moment that we shared and one that I will remember for the rest of my life. This world is big and scary, you never know when your time will come. For that reason, make the most of your life, find compassion for all of God’s children, and cherish your loved ones.
Thank you for sharing this story. I feel Ger and Jason will agree Ger’s selflessness needs to be an example to all of us. We are ALL God’s children, so as Jesus says, we need to put others ahead of our selves. Sounds like you, your team and all climbers understand this. My prayers are with all of you
I cherish YOU!!!!
Thank you for acknowledging your sister who loves you very much!
I often wonder what happened to that little boy, who was really shy, but who always had a soft heart. So glad to see that you grew out of the shyness, but managed to keep the soft heart.
John, I continue to be amazed by your ability to keep things in perspective. My family and I are reading your posts and look forward to them every time they pop up. Thank you for sharing this experience with us.
Thanks for sharing John.
Many thought and the very best regards from Denmark.
Big smile here – have officially started my 3 weeks summer holiday today…..
/Lisbeth
John, a thought to carry with you on your journey. Use daily or just as needed. “Fear knocked on the door. Faith answered. No one was there.” I love that. Hoping it will bring you peace and comfort as you travel on.
Thank you brother, I love you! Now kick that mountain’s butt and come home safe!!