Our plan failed out of the gate. We had tried to wake up early but with our tent getting hammered by wind, it was difficult to melt snow for water and boil it for breakfast. Geoff, one of the most proficient snow melters that I know, proceeded to spill the water out of the pot twice and had to start from scratch each time. By the time that we emerged from our tent, David (Mexico), Semba (Japan) and Jason (Ireland) had already started down the mountain and Geoff was stuck trying to get the logistics for the day sorted out with Garrett. Torn between joining the fast threesome down the mountain and sticking around with Geoff, I chose the latter.
When Geoff and I finally made our way down the slope to rappel House’s Chimney, we found Rob debating over whether the orange or white line would be best to descend on. He went down first and found that the orange line was better because one of the pitons on the white rope had come loose but that the orange line had anchor points that required transferring over to the white rope mid-rappel. Geoff descended and agreed that the piton on the white rope would cause a pendulum if it came loose but realized that it could be fixed by removing the other pitons and freeing the rope entirely. Garrett knew that I could make the tricky switch between ropes mid-rappel, so I did so without any issue, to help free up the glut.
As Geoff worked to free the pitons, I began to move down the mountain to stay warm and I would remain alone for the remainder of the day. I continued my descent, stuck above a slower climber and below a Mongolian woman who seemed to be overmatched by the mountain. On descent, we try to limit one climber to each pitch of rope, a section between anchors, to avoid overloading the rope and breaking it. There was not much that I could do, other than maintain patience. While I’ve become more patient in my old age, additional time spent on K2 has a direct correlation to facing objective hazards, such as rockfall and avalanche, and I wanted off the mountain. The former is what concerned me, as the Mongolian woman seemed to be struggling with the rocky terrain, kicking loose rock down in the process. The fifth time that I heard “ROOOOOOOOCK!” and one whizzed past me, I turned up and yelled “Pull it together! Watch your footwork!” I doubt she understood the words but my tone got the point across.
After 3 grueling hours of patient descent, I arrived at C1 and found my Sherpa buddies on their way up! I spent about 30 minutes sharing Peanut M&M’s with Dendi, Siddhi and Tashi, while we rocked out to my mini stereo. With a little boost in morale, I said goodbye to my friends and started rappelling to ABC. It was hot and I was thirsty, and I soon found myself increasingly frustrated by the delays on the mountain. Efficient speed is critical on a mountain like K2 and the indecisive actions of other climbers was making that speed impossible. This thought festered with me as I reached ABC and hiked to BC, alone.
My Sherpa buddies, psyched at C1!
As I walked through the camps, I came across the abandoned Canadian camp. The frustrations of the day left me and I remembered our first return from ABC, when Serge was outside camp to greet us. He had held a giant bag of Werther’s Originals and handed each of us a couple as we passed. He was a good man and will definitely be missed.
The spot where I was when the accident occurred
Then, I was home.
Hey John, cannot imagine how difficult that must be being at the mercy of others when you’re on a mountain like K2. Sounds like you did a great job of working through it, though. I have a refrigerator magnet that says “God, give me patience. And hurry up will ya!” Thought you’d get a kick out of that. Praying for easier days ahead for you and your team. Gotta have a stinker-day somewhere in the mix, though, right? Be safe.
Like the quote from my Everest journal’s, “If every climb was great, would any of them be?”, we needs the “downs” to truly appreciate the “ups”. While I could do without the tragedy, it definitely helps to provide perspective. It helps me to appreciate the blessings and opportunities that I have and not take them for granted! And, of course, I would love to hurry up and get out of here haha!
“Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; Do not be discouraged, for the Lord your God will be with you wherever you go. -Joshua 1:9”. Don’t ever forget that! Mothers are always right. Glad you are back safely in BC. Time to rest and recharge both mind and body. Love, Dad
You know I will, Dad! I’m fattening up for summit rotation! Love, John
John- Our prayers with you all— we are most thankful that you your mates are getting some much needed rest and mostly that you are still with us – as we are with you.
Be well, stay safe and smart… Enjoy the balance of the time. Blessings to you from Above as well as all our Love from below- The Ostroskys’
Thanks for all the love and prayers, Vince! I really do appreciate the rest days, I just wish that our summit push would get here already, so I could get back to the comforts of home! I also wish that I wouldn’t have to anticipate it, I just want someone to say, “Alright, it’s time to go up!”
John, you being in the edge of that mountain has me on the edge of my seat. You’ve been training hard for this and I know that you can stay focused and strong. You let those of us back home do all the worrying for you. It gives us something to do. Sending strong Viking vibes your way. Get some rest now! Love ya.
Thanks, Tante! I’m doing my best to keep the worry off of my mind but it always just kind of lingers here. While the tragedy rocked me pretty hard, it forced me to reflect on all of the preparation that I have put into this adventure. I know for a fact that I belong here and am ready!
John, with are with you all the way up the mountain, not physically but in our thoughts. This from me who never made it up the Seattle Space Needle, too high for me. Hope you can hear me: “You can do it, you can do it, you can do it.”
Prayers and Love,
Farmor
Funny to think that I used to be afraid of heights too and could hardly step foot into Tante’s old office in the Arco building! I guess I’ve come a long way, thanks to all of the love and support back home.
Glad you’re back at the camp safe. Frustration is one big enemy that can lead to impatience, watch that, child! Our best wishes and all the prayers are with you every step you take. You can do this, you’re strong and smart and seems to really want it, then go get it is this makes you happy!
Life works in mysterious ways… just when I was boiling with frustration, I walked past the abandoned Canadian camp and it set me straight. It’s important to keep an eye out for the lessons that life throws your way, it’s how we learn to become better people.
John, we also follow you from Denmark. Every bit of your trip. We send you our best wishes and hope that you soon can celebrate your victory. And it hits me reading your well written blog: you have a fantastic family behind you. Stay safe. Love from Allan and Anne
I love having a Danish fan club who enjoys reading my journals. While I’m a proud American, I’m also very proud of my Danish heritage and hope that my efforts provide a source of pride for you! Thank you for the kind words about my writing, I enjoy writing them and it’s an added bonus!!
I agree with others, you have us all on the edge of our seats. I enjoy reading your updates between my flights! Keep your head up… sending tons of good vibes your way! You have a great team around you!
Thanks, Heidi! Glad that you are finding time to follow along during your own adventures! Hope your Dad is following along as well!
Glad you’re back at camp safe and sound. Rest up and take care of yourself Brother! I will have a margarita at mango deck in your honor! 🙂 I love you!
Make that 5 margaritas!! I could really go for a few, several buckets of beer, and an lb of guacamole! Have fun on the beach! Love, Brother
Keep pushing buddy!
You know how I roll! I won’t let up until I’m drinking beers on the porch in Arvin with Mom! Glad you are following along. Miss you, Buddy!
Regards from windy Denmark. While you fight your way up the K2, I have been walking in the sand dunes here on the west coast today (much better dunes than the ones you have at Pismo Beach – BIG smile).
You have an incredible strong mind John – I follow you and tell everybody about your courage (maybe there is more viking in you than previously expected).
You have my full admiration.
– hopefully I express myself correctly (else you will just have to excuse my English/Danish)
Your English is great and I’m humbled by your compliments! It’s funny that you mention courage because I definitely don’t feel that way, I simply find myself in the moment and know what I have to do to get the job done. I suppose I’m lucky to have a family that has instilled the perceverence needed for the task at hand!
I as in line at Trader Joe’s and the people in front of me kept sending their kid to go pick up more items while they waited in line, thus creating more time for me to waste in line… so I’m right there with you.
Amen! There is zero doubt that weekends in South City have made me a more patient person, more out of necessity than desire. Whenever times get tough, I just remember that it could be worse, I could be looking for a parking spot at Costco in South City on a weekend…
Gotta love Brendan!!!!!!!
The best.
I’m thinking you should have approached the marketing department at M &M’s , to be one of your sponsors!!! Keep the faith, rest, relax, recharge and your body and soul will pull you through.
Haha it’s not a bad idea! I’m beginning to think that my body composition is 10% peanut M&M’s!